This document will help you remove and replace your ERC unit for a Axiom Dual Direct Drive. First, confirm a couple things:
1. AXIOM series printer (Says AXIOM on the front)
2. The extruder motor is on the hotend, and large gears on top of the print head
3. You have a Dual nozzle.
4. Check the front hole spacing, and confirm which generation you have with the AIRWOLF technician you are working with (there are 3 possibilities)
This will be the assembly you are removing from the machine:
Torx, T-15 driver
M allen wrench
10mm combo wrench
Side or flush cutters to cut zip ties.
For a brief overview, you are going to:
-unplug the machine, remove the back panel, unplug specific connectors on a board, unplug the X/Y motors inside the machine, unplug the Y limit switch wires, remove the 4 ERC bolts and nuts from the top, and lift the assembly straight up and out.
-carefully wrap and box the unit, send tracking information to your AIRWOLF technician.
-reverse the order to install your replacement unit
1. Turn off the machine with the switch on the back, and unplug the power cord.
2. Remove the four Torx screws that hold the back panel on. Keep these screws.
3. Follow the thick gray cable coming from the print head, through the slot in the rear. You're going to unplug the connectors attached to it. Make sure to pull by the connector, not the wires. Some of them have tabs that need to be pinched to remove it. The connectors should be: Heater 1, Side Fans, Heater 2, Rear fans, X Microswitch, Z Probe and attached white wire, Thermistor 1, and Thermistor 2. They are color coded if there are no labels. Cut any zip ties holding that cable.
4. Unplug both of the X/Y Motors, leave the connectors sitting there.
5. Unplug the Y limit switch wires, leave the connectors sitting there.
6. Remove the 4 bolts holding the ERC in place. Hold the 10mm open end wrench on the nut on the bottom, and use the M? allen wrench to loosen the bolt. Keep the bolts, spacers, and nuts. Let us know if you're missing any parts so we can include them.
7. Ready to go! Package and ship the ERC back to us, and email your AIRWOLF agent the tracking information. Do not put tape or adhesive on the smooth linear rods. Use zip ties to gently secure it. Also make sure not to pinch the cable or connectors by setting the ERC on top of them. This causes additional problems in processing, as that can damage an otherwise working cable or connector. Recommended box size: 24x18x10"
At this point, you've received your refurbished replacement unit, and are ready to install it. Inspect the part and verify the following:
-You have received the correct drive system and nozzle configuration.
-The front two mounting bolt holes match your frame.
-There is no shipping damage
-The belts are on all of the pulleys and bearings
-The small metal arm is attached to the Y limit switch
-You have all of the parts you sent with your old unit.
-There is a new nozzle on the tip. It'll be the standard 0.5mm unless you specified otherwise.
8. Insert the ERC into the frame somewhat-straight down. Guide the belts under the lip - do not let them get pinched between the ERC and the frame. You may have to angle it slightly to help this.
9. Install the 4 ERC mounting bolts, spacers, and nuts. You don't have to crank down really tight; just snug will do. Check that you can drag the print head around by hand, and pull it towards the front of the machine.
10. Connect the Y limit switch wires. Leave the middle tab open if your switch has three tabs. The color of the wire doesn't matter which of the two end tabs they go on. While you're there, make sure the small metal arm is still on the switch again.
11. Connect the X/Y motors
12. Route the large gray cable coming from the print head, through the slot in the back.
13. Reconnect the connectors. Although they should be labeled, refer to the above pictures for where they are supposed to go.
14. Place a zip tie on the standoff for the motors, shown here:
15. Before installing the back panel, double check your connectors and make sure there are no spares. Plug in power, turn on the machine, and perform the following analysis from your front screen. Notify your technician if you find any strange behavior. PRESS RESET OR KILL POWER IF IT LOOKS LIKE IT WILL CRASH OR MAKING A STRANGE NOISE!
The machine should move the bed straight down, tag the switch, and come back up slightly. The print head should move to the left (if you're facing/operating the machine), tag the limit switch, then come forward, and tag that limit switch. Any time the machine tags a switch, it should hit it, and move away slightly. If your machine starts going the wrong direction, or not moving at all, see the FAQ below.
-Prepare>Preheat ABS all
The machine should display a commanded value (was 0), it should now say 240 degrees on the hot end, and 130 on the bed temperature. The machine will slowly heat up and reach those temperatures. The fan on the back of the print head should turn on at some point while it heats. Make sure the fan wasn't damaged on install as well.
This is to double check the extruder is working properly. You don't need to load filament at this stage. The motor should turn. While you're looking at it turn, see if there is a lot of debris on the teeth of the extruder. Use a small brush, toothpick, or air to clean it.
-Control>Temperature > Fan (set to 255)
The side fans only turn on at 255, otherwise they will be off. Both should turn on. Also check that neither was damaged on installation.
16. Turn off the machine, unplug power and reinstall your back panel. You do not need to crank down on the screws, just snug is fine.
17. Plug the machine back in, turn on power. Go ahead and load your filament, glass, apply wolfbite, load a program on the SD card, and get ready to print!
The machine should auto home again once hot, go to the brush in the back and wipe the nozzle. Make sure your bed rails are clean (you can use a wire brush). Once it's done wiping, it will move to the front left, and gently tap the nozzle to the bed rail. It'll then move to the front right, touch, back right, touch, then across to the back left. It'll prime the filament, and start printing!
Attached are gcodes file for a test print, using Airwolf filament, on this specific model. It's just a small 30mm test cube that should be less than an hour to run, so you can monitor your print. There are a few slices for a few different materials: ABS, PLA, PC. This is just a basic print to make sure your printer's basic functions are okay. We recommend you monitor this print, at least watching the whole first layer, and being in the same room. If there is an issue, you can tell us exactly what happened, with pictures.
FAQ's and troubleshooting:
Machine doesn't move in X or Y properly, or goes the wrong direction:
-Y limit switch was not plugged in correctly, or not at all.
-X or Y motors plugged in in correctly, not seated fully
-X microswitch connector not plugged in correctly
-Belts are pinched underneath the front of the frame
-Belt has fallen off a pulley/bearing
Z overshoots, or doesn't move when the print starts.
-Z probe not connected properly, or isn't working
-bed rail isn't clean
Hot end doesn't heat:
-Actual temperature never goes up more than room temperature: hot end heater is not connected properly
-Actual temperature reads 0: MINTEMP alarm; thermistor is not plugged into the correct spot, or wires are pulled out/damaged
-Gets hot, then starts cooling, or fails to get to temp, or fails to stay at temp: Poor connection on the hot end heater connector; or defective heater cartridge.
First layer seems closer or further away immediately after ERC was replaced (nothing else):
-Bed rails aren't clean to new nozzle
-Firmware was flashed to be a different version due to nozzle wear, and now that there's a new nozzle, it needs to be changed back
-Slice settings were for a different nozzle size. We are assuming you are using our slicer, APEX, with defaults for your first print. The default nozzle we install on an ERC swap is 0.5mm.
There is a puff of smoke and a burning smell from the heat block. There's now a MINTEMP error.
-You plugged thermistor 1 into the print fan port on the board. You'll need a new thermistor. Let your AIRWOLF technician know and we can re-swap ERC's.